Tweed (nsalu): kupanga, mtengo, ndemanga

Monga momwe zikuwonetsedwera ndi kukumbukira kwa anthu amasiku ano, wolemba wotchuka wa Chingerezi Arthur Conan Doyle ankakonda kwambiri Tweed. Chovalacho, chomwe chinkapangidwa ku Scotland, chinamukondweretsa kwambiri kuti "anapanga" mfundoyi ku khalidwe lake - Sherlock Holmes. Pali ziwerengero zochepa chabe za izi mu bukhu, koma lero palibe amene angaganizire mtsogoleri wamkulu wobvala zobvala zina. Ojambula zithunzi ndi ojambula mafilimu amaimira nthumwi ya Chingerezi mu malaya ndi tchizi. Momwemonso Soviet Sherlock Holmes amavala - Livanov, komanso anzake ogwirizana nawo, omwe adachitidwa ndi Robert Downey Jr. ndi Benedict Cumberbatch.

Kodi nsalu iyi ndi yotani?

Nsalu yamakono - nsalu ya ubweya wa nkhosa, yojambulidwa kuchokera ku mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya ulusi, yopanga mpumulo. Mutu wa kunyada kwa dziko la Scots, pamodzi ndi mwambo wa kilt (msuti wamwamuna wofiira) ndi whiskey, uli ndi tambala. Masiku ano, nkhani zachi Scottish izi zimaperekedwa mu mitundu yosiyanasiyana komanso zosankha zambiri. Tiyenera kutchula kuti izi ndizo zokhazokha padziko lapansi, zomwe zimapangidwa kuchokera ku zipangizo zamakono chifukwa cha zenizeni zamakono zogulitsa dziko. Mitundu yodziwika bwino yokongoletsera izi ndi mtengo wa Khirisimasi, ntchentche ndi khola.

Kuwonjezera apo, nsaluyi ndi yamphamvu, yofewa kwambiri komanso yotentha, komanso, sichimatha. Poyamba, ziphuphu zamtundu wa amuna zidatambasulidwa kuchokera ku tweed pofuna kusaka, ndiyeno mu mafashoni akale ankagwiritsira ntchito kusoka zovala za amuna ndi akazi, zipewa ndi zipewa. Okonza zamakono apeza njira zina zambiri zogwiritsira ntchito ndikupanga matumba, nsapato komanso mipango kuchokera ku nsalu iyi.

Tweed Fabric: kufotokoza ndi makhalidwe

Monga tanenera kale, nkhaniyi imapangidwa kuchokera muzokongoletsedwa ndi kujambulidwa mwanjira yapaderayi yopangira nsalu yakuda, yochokera ku ubweya wa nkhosa wapamwamba kwambiri. Pakupanga mapuloteni a ubweya wozungulira mkati mwake, kupanga mapangidwe opangira nsalu. Mtundu wa tweed uli wosiyana kwambiri ndipo umapezeka chifukwa cha kusakanikirana ndi miyendo yamitundu yovekedwa ndi mitundu yowonongeka. Tweed ndi nsalu, popanga chiwerengero chachikulu cha mitundu yonyezimira yomwe imagwiritsidwa ntchito ingakhale yoposa sikisi.

Ndani anayambitsa izo?

Kumayambiriro kwa zaka za m'ma 1900 ku tauni ya ku Harris ya Scotland, yomwe ili pachilumba cha Lewis, nthawi yoyamba inayamba kuchita tambala. Panthawi imeneyo linali lolemera kwambiri, lakuda ndi lakuthwa, komwe tinapanga zovala zoyenera ku Britain, zomwe zimatetezedwa ku mphepo, kuzizira ndi mvula. Kujambula ulusi wa chilengedwe cha mtundu wachilengedwe wa mitundu yofewa anagwiritsidwa ntchito. M'masiku amenewo teded tagwiritsidwira ntchito poyendetsa suti za amuna ndi jekete.

Nsalu, ndemanga za nthawiyo zowonekera kwambiri, zinali zowonongeka kwambiri komanso zapadera moti kuti mathalauza apange chipinda chapadera chopangidwa ndi chinthu china chokhachotsedwa, kuti asakwiyitse khungu. M'kupita kwa nthawi, luso la zopangidwe linapindula, ndipo tweed inakhala yowonjezera, yofunda ndi yofewa.

Nchifukwa chiyani izo zimatchedwa izo?

Ochita kafukufuku wamakono akukamba za njira ziwiri zomwe zingatheke pofuna kutulukira dzina la nsalu ya ku Scotland. Malinga ndi buku lina, nkhaniyi idatchulidwa kuti ilemekeze Mtsinje wa Tweed womwe ukuyenda pakati pa dziko la Scotland ndi England. Malingana ndi mavesi awiriwa, zolemba zosavomerezeka ndi zosawerengeka za wotsatsa a ku Scotland zinapereka zomwe Mgulitsa Wamalonda anawerenga mmalo mwa "tweel" - "tweed" ndipo anatumiza nsalu ya nsalu ndi dzina ili. Chochititsa chidwi kwambiri, matayala onse, nsalu yotchulidwa, komanso mtundu wina, ndi jeans wamba - chodabwitsa cha chikhalidwe cha anthu ambiri, amapezeka m'gulu la zipangizo zamakono.

Mfundo zofunikira

Kuyesera kutsatizana ndi zofuna za mafashoni osinthika, tayied wasintha kwambiri ndipo yakhala yosiyana kwambiri:

• Harris kwambiri, otentha kwambiri komanso okwera mtengo kwambiri. Amatchedwanso kuti English tweed. Nsalu, yomwe maonekedwe ndi njira zopangidwira sizinazisinthe kuchokera ku XIX atumwi. Monga panthawi imeneyo, ulusi wake ndi utoto wokhawokha, womwe umapangidwa ndi manja ku Scotland pa makina akale.

• Ndi maulendo apamwamba omwe amaonedwa kuti ndi abwino kwambiri pa kusoka malaya. Zapangidwa kuchokera ku ubweya wa nkhosa wotchedwa "Sheviot" ndipo zimalandira nsalu yowirira ndi yofiira. Mtengo wake ndi wapamwamba kwambiri, koma, malinga ndi akatswiri, chovala choterocho chidzakhala kwa zaka makumi ambiri popanda kutaya maonekedwe ndi makhalidwe.

• Mtsinje wofewa kwambiri komanso wolemera kwambiri wamphepete mwawotchi umagwiritsidwa ntchito popanga suti zakusaka ndi jekete.

• Kupukuta jekete ndi suti zosaka, komanso nsalu za tsiku ndi tsiku zimagwiritsa ntchito zipangizo zamakono - Donegal.

• Zovala zowonjezereka zamasewera ndi malaya zimachotsedwa ku nsalu yowumitsa ndi yolemetsa - yotchedwa koverkotovogo tweed, yojambula mu mthunzi wa azitona.

• Pepita, kapena khola la mbusa, ndi mtundu wa nsalu yofiira imene imagwiritsidwa ntchito popanga zikhoto mwanjira yosavomerezeka.

• Sizingatheke kuti tiyitane kachiwiri kawiri kawiri kuposa mtengo wa Khirisimasi. Mu mawonekedwe achikale amachitidwa pa nsalu ya sing'anga yowonjezera mu mitundu yofiirira-chikasu. Malingaliro amakono a chojambula ichi, kugwiritsidwa ntchito kwa mitundu ina kumagwiritsidwa ntchito.

Chovala cha amuna

M'buku lake lodziwikiratu la Remembering Windsor, yemwe kale anali Mfumu Edward VII (Duke wa Windsor) akunena kuti nsalu ya tweed imakondedwa ndi olamulira a Britain monga Edward VII ndi George V.

Chinthu choyamba chodziwika bwino pa zovala za amuna kuchokera pa nkhaniyi chinali jekete la Norfolk lomwe cholinga chake chinali kusaka. Paul Poiret adayambitsa mafashoni a ku Europe (makamaka a French) mawonekedwe a amuna awiri . Chovala chachingelezi chachingelezi chachingelezi chachingelezi chomwe chimagwiritsidwa ntchito tsiku ndi tsiku chinalengedwa patapita nthawi ndikuchichotsa pa nsalu yobiriwira. Patapita nthawi, zovala zochokera kuzinthuzi zinakhala zotchuka pakati pa zamoyo komanso za sayansi, achinyamata ndi ophunzira.

Zojambula ndi machitidwe a amayi

Chifukwa cha chovala chachingwe cha Coco Chanel chovala chopangidwa ndi tizinthu ndi zovala zomwe zimachokera kwa iye zinalowa mukazi. Ndi iye yemwe anasintha pang'ono mawonekedwe a nsalu, naphatikizapo thonje, ndipo anapanga chitsanzo cha jekete yoyenera popanda khola. Akazi a ku Ulaya a mafashoni sanatengere zovala zatsopano, koma pamwamba pa nyanja, ku United States of America, iwo ankasangalala. Kugwira ntchito ndi kutanganidwa kwa America kunayamba kukondana ndi suti yosavuta komanso yokongola. Amayi ambiri otchuka ndi otchuka osiyanasiyana, monga Audrey Hepburn ndi Jacqueline Kennedy, Kate Moss ndi Lady Gaga, amasangalala kupita mu suti zamitundu iwiri. Chiwerengero cha mtundu wake woyamba wotchuka Tweed chinafika mu 1966, ndipo mu 1980 chinachoka m'mafashoni ndipo chinali choiwalika mpaka 2007. Popeza fashoni yachisanu-yozizira imasonyeza 2013-2014, mitundu yosiyanasiyana ya zovala zochokera ku nsalu zofiira zimapezeka m'mabuku ambiri.

Mtengo wa nkhani

Masiku ano ndi zophweka kugula nsalu ya tweed, kufotokoza ndi makhalidwe omwe anaperekedwa pamwambapa. Mmodzi ayenera kukumbukira kuti mtengo wa nkhaniyi umadalira mtundu wa ubweya wokha, teknoloji ya kukonza kwake, komanso, wopanga.

Sitidzakhala ndi zida zowonjezera 100 zomwe zimatchedwa "tweed", chifukwa sizikugwirizana ndi kupotoza kwenikweni. Zinthu zakuthupi zimapangidwa kuchokera ku zinthu zachilengedwe: ubweya ndi silika kapena thonje.

Nsalu yofiira yofiira ya zovala ndi zovala zimagulidwa ku Moscow pamtengo wa rubata 500-600 pa mita imodzi iliyonse. Zovala zowonjezereka ndi zowonjezereka zimadula kuchokera 1300-1400, pa malaya - kuyambira 2000 rubles ndi pamwambapa.

Kuwonetsa kwa Wotsatsa

Ngati mukuganiza zogula kapena kuvala zovala kuchokera ku nsalu zodula ngati tchizi, mungathe kupanga chisankho choyenera, mwinamwake, kuchokera ku ndemanga za iwo omwe azivala kale zovala zofiira. Ambiri ogula amadziwa kwambiri, malingaliro awo, chiwonetsero - mtengo wamtengo wapatali wa nsalu ziwiri ndi zopangidwa kuchokera mmenemo. Kuwonjezera apo, pali zina mwazinthu zosamalira zinthu zomwe tachita, zovuta pamoyo wawo kwa eni ake.

Choyamba, amaloledwa kutsuka m'manja mwazidzidzidzi zodzikongoletsera ubweya, komanso kuumitsa zovala zowatsalira pamalo osanjikizika. Komabe, ubwino wa suti za tweed, madiresi ndi jekete zinali zazikulu kwambiri kuposa zovuta. Nawa ena mwa iwo:

• Zinthu sizimayenda;
• Zakudya zabwino kwambiri ndi kuzivala bwino;
• Ngakhale ndi zobvala zazing'ono, zobvala siziwoneka ngati zowoneka bwino.

Ambiri mwa eni ake ovala zovala za tweed amaganiza za kugula zinthu zina zamakono ndi zokongola.