Mafashoni mlengi Pol Puare: yonena ndi chithunzi

A waluntha, munthu wabwino uja Pol Puare moyenerera udachita mutu wa Mfumu wa Paris mafashoni. Iye si ndendende kuzindikira kwanga kodzichepetsa (ndilo likhululukidwe talente kwambiri) "atavala nyengo", akazi ambiri okongola ndi odziwika nthawi. Mwa makasitomala ake - onse a ku Ulaya, kuphatikizapo apamwamba Russian, komanso anthu kulenga. m'nthawi yake anali Koko Shanel, Zhak Duse, Charlz Uort, NP Lamanova ndi zina zotero D..

Pol Puare, yonena: zaka zoyambilira

Kenako kwambiri mafashoni mlengi amene anabadwa mu Paris pa nsalu wamalonda banja. Mmene ubwana wake kunali kovuta kunena, chifukwa palibe deta odalirika. M'buku lake mbiri ndi Poiret kunadetsa tikunena madiresi, zina zachidule ndi zipewa, amene kale pa nthawi imene maganizo ake ndi kuganiza. Kuyambira ndili mwana iye kroil ndipo adasoka zawo alongo awo. Ngakhale ndiye, talente mnyamata ulendo wake kunja ndipo adamfunsa kuzindikira.

Pol Puare anakulira ndi alongo atatu, imodzi (Nicole Grult) kenako ntchito kulenga madiresi ndi ngakhale anali mmaonekedwe ake m'nyumba yake ku Paris. Wachiwiri atatchuka Komabe, kale shlyapnitsy kwambiri. Ngakhale akuoneka mafashoni amakopeka mwana ndi chilichonse chokhudzana ndi icho, abambo anga sanafune zimenezo, kotero kunena kuti mnyamata anaphunzira sapita kusukulu. Atamaliza maphunziro ake, iye anamupatsa ntchito Mtumiki ambuye wotchuka kwa kupanga maambulera. Koma posakhalitsa, Pol Puare (onani chithunzi. Mmunsimu) yansiya maphunzilowa. Kutenga mabala nsalu Zaveleveti, zinadziwika zovala zawo woyamba kusokera zidole, kupatsidwa ndi alongo kamodzi.

Chiyambi cha njira kulenga

ntchito yawo yam'tsogolo mbuye kwambiri anayamba kugwira ntchito pa wotchuka French mafashoni mlengi ndi wokhometsa Jacques Doucet anali ndiye situdiyo ya Charles Worth, kumene makamaka chinkhoswe mu kapangidwe ndi angachite zovala akunja (zovala, capes). Ndipo kale mu 1903, Pol Puare anakhazikitsa mafashoni nyumba yake. bwino anali odabwitsa ndi mphezi, makamaka chifukwa yogwirizana kale nzika ndi kutchuka pakati makasitomala mfulu, apamwamba.

DZIWANI analimbikitsa kubwerera ku mafashoni akale, ndipo anayambitsa kavalidwe monga malaya ndi peplos, ndipo akufuna latsopano Parisian ngati ife tikanati lero, kachitidwe - chovalacho.

domesticity

Pol Puare - mafashoni khalidwe maganizo, wowala addicting chikhalidwe. Iye amangofuna sipangakhalenso popanda imasonkhezera a. Inasanduka Deniza Bule, amene anakwatira mu 1909. Monga anavomereza ndi mbuye, iye ndiye chimake cha zolinga zonse. Wokongola mkazi kuchokera m'zigawo kudabwa alendo ndi zovala owala, wapadera ndi kudzikondweretsa analenga makamaka kwa iye, kuwululidwa kukongola kwake. Aliyense kabuku anali lidzasinthidwa chochitika, zotengeka. A angapo kukambirana atolankhani ndi anthu. Ndithudi pano mu miyoyo yawo kuyesetsa ozunguza anthu, kufika nthawi zina mpaka choyalutsa. Inali nthawi imeneyi nthawi Pol Puare (onani zovala Chinkaimira.) Lapeza kutchuka ngati okonza ambiri otchuka fashoni ya mdziko, izo poyerekeza ndi chithunzicho, mlengi, ndi uthenga anakhetsa, monga ngati kuchokera cornucopia a.

Banjali ndi anatchuka kwambiri monga okonza odzitukumula chipani zovala amene anachita chaka chilichonse. Aliyense tchuthi ali mutu wake womwe, koma makamaka wotchuka madzulo "1002 TH Night" unachitika mu 1911.

Mwatsoka, nkhani zonse zokongola ndi kupitiriza zoyenera ndi kutsiriza. Banjalo litatha mu 1928, pamene chuma bwino kukhala Poiret anayamba kutha. Kodi chifukwa chenicheni kupatukana phiko patapita zaka zambiri, kuti palibe amene angathe. Komabe, mafunso nyuzipepala Denise adamnenera Iye nkhanza ndi Poiret, nayenso, wotchedwa khalidwe lake zolawula.

zolinga Tsankho ntchito

Mu 1910, mutapita kwa "Scheherazade" kuvina mu Paris, Pol Puare anachita chidwi kwambiri moti sindikanatha uwu ndi chithumwa ndi chinsinsi cha East. Kwa nthawi yoyamba mu zopereka zake zinali zitsanzo ndi amajambulapo maluwa okongola mitundu, ndipo patatha chaka chimodzi iye anakonza zovala mutu chipani "Chikwi chachiwiri usiku." Couturier abulukira mu mawonekedwe a yakumeneko otchuka. Pambuyo chochitika kum'maŵa amajambulapo maluwa okongola waukulu chonchi zovala kwa nthawi yaitali wogwidwa socialites. Buluku lonse ndi siketi, mathalauza, nduwira - zonsezi wasanduka chovala zosowa usiku kunja.

Russian kalembedwe ntchito opanga mafashoni

Kwa nthawi yoyamba matalente Russian Poiret anakumana pochezera kuvina, amene anawombera m'manja lonse la Europe. Amakopeka ndi chiyambi ndipo Luso anaganiza kupita pa ulendo wa ku Eastern Europe, kuphatikizapo Moscow ndi St. Petersburg. The couturiers wotchuka anabwera ndi kusangalala kwathunthu ku Russian wowerengeka zovala (sundresses zobiriwira, kichek, mabulawuzi, corbel, mipango ndi shawls). Iye ngakhale anabweretsa kuchuluka kwa zovala ndi inu ku likulu la kachitidwe. Yowutsa mudyo, maluwa okongola ndi yokongola - zonsezi Pol Puare (kavalidwe tikuonera chithunzi) ntchito kulenga m'chigawo choyamba cha zovala ndi amajambulapo maluwa okongola Russian dziko. iye "Kazan" ankatchedwa.

Ndi odula Paulo Poiret a

Mu maonekedwe ake mbadwa pansi amafotokozera izi kale Russian wamba zovala anamvetsa odula ndi manja molunjika ndi kumbuyo, neotreznoy mzere m'chiuno. odula Paulo Poiret - pamenepa stylized, mtanda zogwirizana kwa nthawi yoyamba kwa mkazi wanga Denise suti. Kwa iye, ntchito mdima nsalu yapamwamba, kugogomeza m'maganizo ndi kununkhira kwa kalembedwe Russian.

Wosafa cholengedwa mlengi

zovala zamakono mkazi chabe pang'ono popanda kaso ndi achigololo pensulo siketi. Nthawiyi, nkhani ya chilengedwe chake amabwerera chiyambi cha zaka mazana makumi awiri. "Kuyenda yubkayubka" Chaka - pamene zinachitika ndi analengedwa. Pol Puare otchedwa izo mwanjira imeneyo chifukwa chakuti Betelehemu yopapatiza asalankhule kayendedwe, ndi akazi anakakamizika mince, kusunthira njira yaing'ono. "Opunduka siketi" Anakhalanso maziko a osati silhouette, "pensulo", komanso chaka, wotchuka otchuka silhouette a "mermaid" madzulo ndipo ukwati madiresi.

Books P. Poiret

Against tsoka ndi zikuvuteni moyo mlengi 1930 amatulutsa mkwiyo atatu a mabuku ake: "Fashion ndi Finance", "Zokometsera chi" ndi "Bwererani!". Onse a iwo Kwenikweni, kuimira memoir. ntchito Galeta kuwerenga kuti - osangalala, lonse mndandanda wa mayina wotchuka, zazikulu pa maziko a mbiri kochititsa kaso kwa atumwi makumi awiri .. Pol Puare anali munthu wa msinkhu ndi Mipikisano faceted, anaitanidwa monga lecturer pa Sorbonne, ndi malo zina anauza kulenga zovala.

Ndikuiwala lalikulu mafashoni mlengi

Ndi 20 ntchentche Mu zaka zapitazo, ndi capricious mafashoni mumaganiza anayamba zimasintha, zimakhudza dziko lino, ndi chipwirikiti cha ndale, nkhondo. Mu mbiri ya zonse zachilengedwe, ndi maina ena m'malo mwa ena. Kotero izo zinali ndi Paulo Poiret. Makamaka wamba mwa mpikisano amatchulidwa zosachepera lalikulu Koko Shanel. Mlengi sanathe atengere dziko kusintha mofulumira, chifukwa cha zimene iye anachotsedwa mafashoni Olympus. Pambuyo 1925 anali pafupi ndi umphawi anakakamizika kugulitsa situdiyo wake, magulu zojambula ndiponso zinthu zina luso. Iye anafa mu umphawi ndi chisokonezeko mu 1944. Ndipo chabe zaka khumi ndi theka omvera kachiwirinso anakumbukira dzina - Pol Puare. Waona komanso magazini zilipo zovala wolemba anali poyera ndi mkazi wakale wake. Nthawi anapangidwa mmodzi kwambiri kuzungulira, ndipo patapita nkhondo yoopsa, anthu ndikufuna wina ananyalanyaza, chowala, mosadziletsa kukongola.

Mu 2005, ku zosonkhanitsira munthu wa mkazi ndi ana ake Poiret agulitsa oposa mazana asanu ndi zinthu zosiyanasiyana za zovala. Ena mwa mmabwalo anali limodzi ndi zithunzi kuchokera miyala munthu banja. Mozizwitsa anasunga zinthu (osati nthawi zonse bwino) anapita zakale wotchuka wa dziko mafashoni.

Pol Puare - Mfumu ya Fashion zaka mazana makumi awiri, amene anapereka ufulu akazi mphamvu weniweni ndi wophiphiritsa. Iye anapanga kusintha loka madona 'chipinda choyamba akufuna kusiya corsets, kuluka yaitali, ndi kuyesa mathalauza. Bright Star luso mbuye, mwatsoka, adaonetserabe mwachidule, koma dzina lake mpaka kalekale alembedwa mbiri.