Mwambi: Ndipo ofunika kwambiri kuvutika, kudziwa wamng'ono ... Monga anati chikondi-mnyamata, popeza ku mapeto a zilembo ... "mapepala Pickwick" ndi Charles

Ife tikudziwa zimene zingamuthandize zonse chisamaliro - shampu ndi basamu. Today ife kulankhula kokha kwa shampu. Kukambirana adzakhala yaitali ndi zambiri ngakhale yosasangalatsa, koma pambuyo angapo nkhani mudzatha kumvetsa shampu zikuchokera, osati kuwerenga mawu otsatsira malonda.

mbiri

Kale kusamba tsitsi ambiri makamaka ntchito dzira yolk ndi mkaka wowawasa chosakanizika ndi dongo. Koma wotchuka kwambiri shampu zinachitika mwina phulusa - zotsalira za mankhwala kuyaka ali osokonezeka ndi madzi kupeza khola kwambiri zamchere thobvu misa. M'zaka za m'ma 19 mafakitale sopo olimba, odalirika Kutha kwa mafuta a nyama ndi chiyambi masamba. Izi wotchuka mbale sopo, umene wakhala bwinobwino ntchito osati grandmothers athu, komanso ena a m'nthawi yake. Ndine anatsutsa kwambiri - chifukwa sopo mchikakamizo cha madzi kupanga mankhwala insoluble (ndi mchere kuuma), amene adayikidwa pa tsitsi, kupanga zolengeza woyera ndi clogging pores wa khungu (zomwe zimayambitsa nkomwe kusintha alopecia).

M'zaka khumi zoyambirira za m'ma 20, zikomo kampani Schwarzkopf anaonekera woyamba ndalama zapadera osamba tsitsi. Shampoo mwachizolowezi pali ife tonse mofanana zasayansi Schwarzkopf mu 1933 ndipo takhala wokondedwa maloto a akazi ndiye yapamwamba padziko lonse. Pali ngakhale nthano monga zomwe izi ankanena kuti imodzi mwa mfundo kwa ke osati kuukira Germany ndi Soviet Union anali kufuna kuti makampani wathu ndiye zodzikongoletsera (mosonyeza fakitale Freedom, amene awonongedwa mu Moscow), chilinganizo cha German mankhwala ochapira tsitsi chozizwitsa. Ine sindikudziwa momwe oona kwambiri, koma Mulimonsemo, Russia ndi shampu choyamba anaonekera yekha mu 60s m'zaka zoyambirira za m'ma 20. Mpheroyi osati ochiritsira detergency omanga (alkyl), koma glycerin emollient. Komabe, ngakhale, mankhwala ochapira tsitsi anali "zovuta" (pH = 7-8), tingathe kuyerekezera iwo kupatula, ndi masiku shampu kwambiri kuyeretsa. Mu zaka 70 za m'ma 20 kampani "Procter & njuga" anali koyamba mu zikuchokera mankhwala ochapira tsitsi kusamalira wothandizila (cationic zigawo zikuluzikulu) kuti akuwonjezeka mankhwala ochapira tsitsi ngakhalenso softness zina kuti luso tsitsi zowongolera.

mankhwala ochapira tsitsi zamakono

Pakali pano, ndi shampu kwa ukhondo nthawi zonse wakhala pafupifupi "mwambo", monga lili chisamaliro wofatsa wopanda mkwiyo kwa khungu, pamaso pa katundu osiyana osamalira tsitsi, nthawi zonse anali kuphatikiza ndi zotsatira achire ndi prophylactic pa khungu, ndipo ngakhale amachita monga ngati aromatherapy, ayamikike fungo zabwino. N'chifukwa chake, shampu ndi chimodzi mwa zinthu zambiri amagwiritsa ntchito mankhwala zodzikongoletsera chimene chimachita zofuna Kumwambamwamba, amene m'nkhani ino, adzakhala okhawo detergents ndi Khungu ndi katundu monga kukambirana "kunja mankhwala maonekedwe," "m'chifanizo" chake mu malonda msika kwa ine chidwi kwambiri.

Mu masiku ano cosmetology m'bukhu akunena kuti khalidwe ano shampu kale:

- wabwino kuyeretsa zotsatira (kumene, izi ndi ntchito yake yaikulu); kupereka thovu wolemera mu madzi a kuuma chilichonse (chimene chiri chofunika kwambiri m'dziko lathu lalikulu);

- bwino anagawira pa tsitsi (izi ndi zofunika ku mawonedwe a profitability, chifukwa pabwalo akadali "zovuta");

- mosavuta anatsuka kutali (ichi ndi kumasonyeza "Mwachangu" monga anthu ambiri kale kuika owerengera pa madzi, kuwonjezera pa flakes shampu mvula ndi chodziwikiratu wina mendulo);

- alibe limakhumudwitsa khungu (amazipanga enieni katundu mu allergenicity kuchuluka kwa munthu wamakono);

- kupereka zowongolera tingati kuti n'zosavuta chipeso (chabwino, ichi Ine kukangana, chifukwa maganizo anga, ntchito ya balms);

- kupereka tsitsi lowala ndi wathanzi maonekedwe (koma kumene, makamaka ngati ogula amatanthauza mfundo monga "chiyero");

- phukusi yabwino ndi maonekedwe wokongola.

Posachedwapa shampu anayamba kuwonjezera akuda particles inaimitsidwa - microspheres ndi zotsatira zowonjezera kulenga thovu kapena confetti. Kuwonjezera zithunzi zotsatira zosangalatsa, iwo kuonetsetsa chitetezo cha zowonjezera zakudya. Komabe, ziribe kanthu momwe wokongola anali shampu maonekedwe, chowonadi ndi chikoka cha ogula katundu yake imawunikidwa pokhapokha ntchito.

Udindo wa madzi mu shampu ndi

Kuchuluka kwa madzi mu shampu ndi angafikire 80%, madzi ayenera kukhala makamaka microbiologically woyera (kuti shampu sichikwiya "kukuchitika" mabakiteriya). M'pofunika kuti panalibe salt kuuma (chitsulo, calcium, magnesium), zomwe kuchepetsa thobvu ndi zambiri amagwa pansi monga Sizisangalatsa precipitate. Kuti n'chongoletsa ambiri a mchere awa akuwonjezeka otchedwa chelates (kawirikawiri ndi Trilon B).

Lero ndi yapamwamba kunena kuti madzi mankhwala ochapira tsitsi m'malo ndi infusions kapena decoctions zitsamba. Sindikudziwa kuti n'zothekadi kuyambira akupanga mankhwala ndi malo abwino osati zochizira zosiyanasiyana dermatitis, komanso kukula kwa mitundu yonse ya zamoyo, imene palibe "Chabwino". Ndipo komabe ... Ife zitha kukhulupirira zimene akunena zamalonda.  

The kuyeretsa mankhwala

Ngakhale chotero yaikulu zili% madzi akadali maziko a shampu aliyense ndi detergent mankhwala. Chifukwa ntchito zikuluzikulu za shampu kuchotsa litsiro, ndiye - kusamba! Maziko detergent zinthu ndi surfactants mu mankhwala ochapira tsitsi - surfactants.

katundu Surfactant: 1. kuchepetsa mavuto pamwamba pa madzi ndi mafuta particles, zomwe kuchotsa particles awa ndi dothi; 2. n'kupanga thovu (poyamba anali kuzikhulupirira - kwambiri chithovu bwino kuyeretsa Tsopano mawu awa pa zabodza.); 3. Kupanga kuyimitsidwa wa particles dothi mu thovu ndi kuteteza kukonzanso Kuthetsa dothi pa tsitsi (izi ndi zofunika, mwinamwake m'malo kusamba kuti tikanakhala wozunzikirapo Sisyphean ntchito); 4. zosakaniza atsala okhazikika shampu kapena kukhala nawo mu Ulili kusungunuka; 5. kuonjezera kukhuthala mankhwala ochapira tsitsi; 6. kupereka tsitsi softness.

Perekani detergency makamaka surfactants anionic, mamolekyulu kwa amene ali liposoluble (hydrophobic) gawo ndi madzi sungunuka (hydrophilic) gawo. Mu amadzimadzi njira, mamolekyulu ndi kuwola ndinso kupanga ayoni zoipa mlandu. Mafuta-sungunuka gawo la molekyulu ndi adzamanga ndi malaya particles dothi ndi katulutsidwe wa zopangitsa sebaceous. The sungunuka madzi gawo la molekyulu zochokera kutali tsitsi, limene likutengera mlandu zoipa (monga amadziwika mlandu chomwecho amawateteza mzake), umene ndi particles dothi, chikugwirizana ndi surfactants, tsitsi anakana, ndiye kusungunuka m'madzi ndipo kuchotsedwa nazo. zigawo zikuluzikulu zimenezi komanso si infrequently amatchedwa detergents ndi surfactants. detergents Saponifier ndi lochokera kwa zachilengedwe, surfactants - mankhwala kupanga. Nthawi zambiri ntchito detergents angapo mu shampu: sulphate ndi sodium laureth (zambiri ntchito), mchere wa alkyl efa sulfates (sodium wochuluka lauryl magnesium, kupatula ammonium), laureth mankhwala enaake a sulphate (lililonse limatisokoneza koma mtengo) saktisulfosuktsinaty (surfactants zofewa zochokera asidi succinic) acyl mapeputisayidi (ndi condensation mankhwala a mapuloteni hydrolyzate ndi mafuta kokonati).

Amagwiritsidwanso kwambiri ankagwiritsa ntchito surfactants cationic. Iwo ndi zotsatira mwachilungamo wofatsa detergent, koma iwo ali bwino "kukopa" ndi moyipa mlandu tsitsi ndi kuchita fixation wa zowonjezera zakudya pa tsitsi: ma polima cationic, hydrolysates quaternized mapuloteni, mbewu polysaccharides.

surfactants Amphoteric - osakaniza surfactants anionic kuonjezera harmlessness wa formulations shampu, ndi osakaniza cationic kumapangitsanso Phindu la silicones ndi zina za Skin pa tsitsi ndi khungu: alkilamidopropil betaines cocoamphoacetate.

Kunena zoona, kulankhula za surfactant angakhale nthawi yayitali (Ndipotu pali ambiri omwe si amaayoni, kriptoaninovye surfactants ndi ngakhale SOPA Zimenezi zimathandiza kuti kulenga mitunduyi kwambiri moyenera), koma ine ndikukhulupirira kuti izi zikhoza kutha, monga amayamba zovuta kwambiri mankhwala kwa ife subtleties.

zokongoletsa zina

Opacifiers: lakonzedwa kuti amabisa heterogeneity wa mankhwala kapena lake ndi mtundu wokongola, amene amalola pafupifupi palibe kusintha mu chiphunzitso, kusintha ogula ake katundu. Pambuyo opacifiers Komanso, shampu afana ndi odzola kapena odzola, kuposa detergents ochiritsira (mtundu banja). opacifiers mankhwala ndi amadzimadzi polima dispersions.

Utoto: anaphunzitsidwa amabisa mithunzi osafunika. Iwo ayenera kukhala otetezeka kwa anthu ogula photostable ndipo musati kuwola ndinso pa mitundu yonse ya zotsatira (Kutentha, kuzizira, etc.). M'mayiko ambiri okhudza ntchito utoto. Okwana pali machitidwe angapo zolimbana - US, European ndi Japanese. opanga Russian kutsatira utoto lamulo European. Ndipo ambiri - mutu sooo osati losavuta ndi m'malo yosasangalatsa, ichi - zonse.

Kununkhira: Kuwonjezera imene "chokongoletsedwa" mankhwala, kupanga izo wokongola kwa wogula, perefyumu, kuphatikizapo fungo zikopa yaiwisi. Choncho - mukuganiza za izo. Ngati fungo ali ndi mphamvu kwambiri kumeneko, sizikutanthauza zimenezi zipangizo si kwambiri khalidwe ... Perfume ayenera yogwirizana ndi fillers ena shampu osati kugwa pa nthawi (akukhulupirira kuti asungidwe miyezi 3). Chiwembu ALIMBIKITSENI fungo shampu zovuta ndipo mwatsoka, pamodzi ndi mchere; kutetezera ndi colorants akhoza kukhala chochititsa chachikulu cha thupi lawo siligwirizana ndi shampu lapansi. Pali wamba European lamulo, limene imalongosola 26 allergens lalikulu, lomwe angakhale m'gulu mafutawo, koma kwa chitetezo ayenera kuthi kusonyeza pa chizindikiro, makamaka ngati chiwerengero chawo kuposa malire.

zinchito zina

Mchere; kutetezera: ndi zinthu akuwonjezeka zodzoladzola kuletsa kukula kapena kupha tizilombo, kuyambira zodzoladzola kuphatikiza chilengedwe kwambiri kukula ndi kubereka tizilombo. Ichi ndi choopsa kwambiri, chifukwa tizilombo osati amanyoza khalidwe la mankhwala, komanso kubala poizoni (ziphe chiyambi zachilengedwe), umene uli ngakhale kungakhale chitukuko cha zochita yotupa ndi matupi awo sagwirizana. Choncho, kuchokera chiyero microbiological kwakukulukulu zimadalira osati pa ogula katundu wa mankhwala, komanso dzuwa ake ndipo Ndikufuna kunena - chitetezo. Kusankha usawonongeke anapanga payekha wachina chilichonse. Ndi ntchito wokongola zovuta, popeza m'pofunika kuganizira: efficacy wokhudza sipekitiramu waukulu tizilombo; usawonongeke ngakhale ndi zosakaniza onse shampu; otsika kawopsedwe; kutentha mutendele; kukhazikika mu lonse pH osiyanasiyana.

mchere; kutetezera Basic ntchito: ena ofanana asidi benzoic asidi, parabens zosiyanasiyana, metilhloroizotiazolinon ndi methylisothiazolinone, imidazolidinyl urea, propylene glycol, methylparaben, propylparaben, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben ndi zina zotero.

Thickeners (kukhuthala owongolera) akuwonjezeka mankhwala ochapira tsitsi kupereka kugwirizana ankafuna. thickeners yoyenera kwambiri amagwiritsidwa ntchito ma polima ndondomeko ndi polyvinylpyrrolidone ndi copolymers wa acrylates. Komanso thickeners angachichite udindo wa glyceryl esters zidulo mafuta ndi polysaccharides chiyambi mbewu.

Solubilizing wothandizila: ndi nthumwi zapadera zimene zimawonjezera solubility wa zosakaniza bwino sungunuka. mankhwala osiyanasiyana ethoxylated ntchito nthawi zambiri. Solubilizers zambiri ntchito solubilize zonunkhira. Ena zowonjezera pamaso oyamba mu shampu komanso kusungunuka mu solubilizers (mwachitsanzo, jojoba mafuta, tirigu nyongolosi mafuta, mafuta-sungunuka mavitamini).

PH owongolera: kuti tikonzedwe, odziwika kwambiri kwa ife index wa hydrogen, kuwonjezera zidulo zofewa (citric, lactic, phosphoric) kapena soda (sodium wochuluka hydroxide, mono- kapena triethanolamine). The pH wa shampu ndi amazipanga zofunika, chifukwa ayenera kukhala monga kuonetsetsa mphamvu ya zigawo zikuluzikulu zonse m'gulu kapangidwe kake. Nthawi zambiri, akukhulupirira kuti izo ndi pH Mzimuyo mlingo wa khungu likuyabwa ntchito shampu. Koma dermatologists kukhulupirira kuti izi ndi maganizo ndithu, monga ofufuza ambiri kutsindika kuti khungu labwino katundu gawo lotetezedwa (luso mwachilungamo kuugwira kusinthasintha makhalidwe pH, mwachitsanzo ziziyenda pH). Chinthu chokha chimene chingayambitse chifooke dongosolo buffering - shampu zoipa yagwa pa tsitsi ndi khungu, koma ndiye kukondoweza adzagwira ntchito osati osati mochuluka kwambiri owongolera pH.

zowongolera zina

Anafuna kuti: kuchotsa magetsi malo amodzi (tsiku lina ndinakumana ndi akuti - "Tsitsi kuchepetsa razletaemosti"); kuwongola m'madera kuonongeka kwa cuticle (porosity kuwongola); mutsogolo chomasuka kuongola tsitsi (onse yonyowa ndi youma); kupereka Kuwala tsitsi ndi silkiness; atetezedwe matenthedwe; hydration ndi zakudya tsitsi; kuwonjezera M'BUKU tsitsi.

Limagwirira cha zochita za conditioners mpweya: tingati kwenikweni kumachitika banal maginito "+" mlandu mamolekyulu conditioners kuti "-" mlandu tsitsi pamwamba. Komabe, kuwonjezera maginito, mu nkhani iyi, pali mpweya wofewetsa ndi molekyulu kumangako ndi keratin tsitsi. Mundawu amatchedwa - substantivity, chifukwa conditioners ake mpweya osati pa pamwamba pa tsitsi, komanso kusunga nthumwi phindu. Akukhulupirira kuti magawo kuonongeka tsitsi ndi lalikulu zoipa mlandu, choncho iwo omwe kuposa "+" mlandu (cationic) a particles, ndiko - zotsatira zodzikongoletsera kumatheka. Ndipotu, izi ndi zimene ambiri mtundu pamalo monga "chisamaliro anzeru.

Mwa ubwino ambiri wofewetsa mpweya kumaimira luso kupereka tsitsi lanu amazipanga kukongola ndi mkulu gloss. Izi zimatheka mwa kuti mpweya "chingamu ali 'cuticle tsitsi, kupanga pamwamba yosalala kwambiri (chithunzi tsitsi zimasiyanasiyana kusinkhasinkha kwambiri), potero utithandize, mtundu mwamphamvu ndi gloss achilengedwe.

Pali Komabe, zotsatira kwambiri zosangalatsa mbali ya zozizwitsa izi conditioners cationic. Nthawi zambiri mankhwala ochapira tsitsi (makamaka kuonongeka kwambiri ndipo nsaluzi zinkangokhala tsitsi) Inali yolemera kwambiri tsitsi, kuchotsa buku zambiri. Pa kulenga shampu, njira zofunika kutsatira pa zinthu zoyenera kuyeretsa ndi zowongolera zosakaniza. Izi ndi zofunika chifukwa kuwonjezeka kwambiri mu zina zowongolera kwambiri impairs ndi rinsability ndi kuyeretsa shampu. Nkofunika kusankha kwa wofewetsa mpweya. Mwachitsanzo, amphamvu kwambiri komanso zothandiza mpweya ndi mafuta silikoni, umene uli kwambiri amasonkhana pa tsitsi (kukumbukira izi zosaneneka olimbikira m'maganizo ndi kukumbukira makasitomala athu). Choncho, akatswiri amakono amakonda kugwiritsa ntchito kuwala (oyaka) silicones.

Nkofunika kukumbukira kuti kaya amphamvu ndipo limatha kudzichiritsa kunalibe shampu, zowongolera pamaso zina si amapatula kufunika kogwiritsa ntchito mankhwala. Zimenezi n'zofunika kwambiri makamaka kwa owonongeka nsaluzi zinkangokhala ndi lopotana tsitsi, komanso tsitsi lalitali shaded malekezero. Kumbukirani kuti madera kuonongeka ali pamwamba chachikulu ndi mlandu oipa, ndi ntchito ya chigawo cationic si kokwanira.

Silicones: kupereka tsitsi softness, kudzawala ndi silkiness, kuchepetsa woyang'anira malo amodzi, atsogolere kuongola tsitsi yonyowa ndi youma, kupewa kuwononga iwo (kuphatikiza iwo kuchepetsa stickiness ndalama zogulira zomangamanga). Silicones angathe kumata ndi cuticle ndi kuchita ntchito kuchepetsa. Komanso, iwo kulenga filimu padziko tsitsi, kuteteza tsitsi ku mokwiya kwa chilengedwe ndi kukhala matenthedwe katundu chitetezo.

Mitundu ya silicones mvetsetsa awo pa chikhalidwe cha tsitsi: 1. dimethicone - silikoni mafuta. Ndi kutchulidwa limatha kudzichiritsa kanthu, amalenga chodabwitsa ndi chete luster, kuongola ndi makongoletsedwe mosavuta kupanga Kutentha filimu zozitetezera. Kodi kulemera pansi tsitsi lanu. 2. polioldimetikony (copolymers) - madzi sungunuka silicones. Katundu pang'ono pang'ono kugawira mankhwala kudzera tsitsi kusintha makongoletsedwe. 3. aminofunctional silicones (amodimethicone) - adzalandira zowongolera ndi yobwezeretsanso katundu, mwangwiro nawobe mtundu wa tsitsi zolochedwa. 4. encapsulation wa silicones - kupereka zowongolera owonjezera ndi bwino tsitsi makongoletsedwe; 5. dimethicone laurate succinoglycan - amadzimadzi silikoni emmulsiya vysokomolekulchrnogo - nazo regenerative ndi regenerative tingati amapereka silky, glues unagawanika tsitsi ikutha.

Apa ndi iye - ABC chisamaliro.