Spanish dziko zovala: maonekedwe, mitundu ndi zithunzi

Spain, pamene ife tikuziwona izo? Mokhudza, moyo otsimikiza, chowala, eccentric, matupi ndi nyimbo kwambiri, ndi caressing moyo nyimbo ndi kuvina kusalankhula. Ndipo komabe kugwirizana ndi zimakhalira kumtundu kwathu Carmen, kugonjetsa dziko lapansi chifukwa cha kukongola ndi zovala. Spanish zovala kwa kuvina (onani chithunzi. Tibwereze a) ali ndi mbiri olemera ndi wakufayo kwambiri, malingana osati kwambiri pa dera, ngakhalenso kwa mzinda. Ndipo nthawizonse mwambo wa mitundu, kuchuluka kwa ulemerero nsalu.

Lingaliro la "Spanish zovala" amagwirizana ndi yeniyeni m'mbiri nyengo - 15-19 atumwi. Ndipotu n'kovuta mafupa zovala, amene anatengedwa ku bwalo la Habsburg mafumu a Spain (iwo anali wotchuka kwambiri mu mawonekedwe a makhoti zachifumu zambiri za Europe). Mu zovala, nthawizina mogwirizana ndi nthawi zina, ophatikizidwa ndi chikhalidwe apamwamba, ndi moyo wosasangalala wa Chikatolika ndi ulemerero wakale chivalry.

zovala Spanish akazi

Mu maonekedwe omwe tsopano tonse tikudziwa ndi Spanish dziko zovala kuti mafilimu, mabuku, mafanizo ndi zojambula akale (kutanthauza kuti fano aumbike mwa luso), izo potsiriza anapanga m'zaka za m'ma 18-19. A mbali yaikulu nyimbo pano ndi chikhalidwe cha zamatsenga. Ichi ndi wapadera chikhalidwe stratum ya anthu, ndi dandies Spanish yemwe anabwera kuchokera kwa anthu, ndi kugogomeza chiyambi zanyengo zovala.

Kukongola mkazi wamba ndi fano lake lonse ali makamaka kutamandidwa mu zojambula ndi Goya. Iwo ankakhulupirira kuti zachitika ku Andalusia, ndi kale ndiye ankaona lachitsanzo ntchito khadi limene lero kuphunzira Spanish wowerengeka zovala.

Mu chithunzi pamwambapa - akazi kudera la Sardinia. Pali akazi ndi zovala zachimuna munali zinthu pafupifupi zofanana. Mahi zovala ndi madera awa:

• Jekete lokwanira ndi lapels lonse, ndi corset ankagwiritsa ntchito.
• Mantilla - amafotokozera kwambiri maonekedwe. Ndi zingwe kapena silika yaitali chophimba, kuvala, zambiri pamwamba lokwera (peyneta) anaphedwa pa tsitsi pa mlingo woyenerera (kuweramira malangizo kapena imatengedwa zotukwana) ndi ufulu kuvunda mafunde pa mapewa ndi kumbuyo kwa mkazi. Pa nthawi imene Spanish zovala anapangidwa ndi manja awo, osati makina osokera, aliyense dona anali kuyesera kupanga mantilla wapadera, ndi dongosolo chosiyana. oimira Zamakono za dziko kwinaku kuvala izo, koma nthawi yokhayi.
• Comb. Mbiri yakale yolondola adzakhala amene ali ndi kutalika kwa masentimita 20 ndipo amakona anayi mawonekedwe, ndi mano 4-5. Kwa atsikana analoledwa woyera ndi zonona, kwa akazi okwatiwa - wakuda ndi zofiirira, ulamuliro N'chimodzimodzinso poyerekezera mantilla lapansi. Mu nkhani imeneyi, Spanish wowerengeka zovala zikuwoneka mtundu wa zakuda.
• Chovala - ufulu odulidwa.
• Shawl.
• Tembenukira - ndi chowonjezera chachikulu cha nthawi.

Mu fomu iyi ndi tsopano n'zosatheka kupeza zovala, koma umunthu wake masiku ano mwina ankaona ngati Spanish flamenco zovala kwa kuvina.

Male Spanish zovala

Against maziko a mantillas akazi wakuda ndi kubisala osati mutu komanso mapewa (kuganiza kuti kuyambira kale, chinthu ichi anabwera ku East) chovala mwamuna kuposa owala basi. Lembani izo zimapanga kuvomerezedwa:

• Zocheperapo jekete, Zikungokhala ngati jekete. Iye sanali buttoned, Ine zinatha pa m'chiuno, ndipo kenako French anamutcha iye "Le Figaro".
• A kochepa bulandi, nthawi zonse yowala mitundu.
• mathalauza zolimba bondo-kutalika ndi kochulukira chokongoletsedwa.
• Lamba wa pamimba - lamba lonse, nthawi zambiri akuda.
• Chofunda enveloping kuchokera pamwamba mpaka chala, ndipo ndi yowala alimbane.
• Montera kapena Tricorne ndi tsitsi ukonde.
• Masitonkeni.
• nsapato Low odulidwa ndi buckles zitsulo.

China chowonjezera zachilendo, amene anali onse amuna ndi akazi Spanish zovala (onani chithunzi pamwambapa.) - ndi Navajo. Large kungomanga mpeni anali ankavala yekha ndi anthu wamba, chikugwirizana ndi lamulo la kuvala zida lalikulu ozizira.

Mu masiku ano Spain kwambiri kwa zinthu zoterozo suti wadutsa ndi bullfighter na nguwo.

Monga mafashoni mahos anasamukira ku nyumba lolemera ...

Monga mukudziwa, onse ngoletsedwa chimakopa munthu ndi mphamvu kwambiri kuposa zilipo - kuti mwachibadwa wathu. Chiwerewere mahos moyo ndi makhalidwe a chiwonetsero, kuvina phokoso ndi castanets ndi maseche, nyimbo - zonse kukopa kuwala apamwamba. Choncho, chaka cha 1770 kuti moyo ndi zovala za anthu wamba akhala minibasi wa apamwamba.

Komabe, kupatula china chilichonse, panali pa zodabwitsazi ndi mbali ina chidwi kwambiri. Chinaneneratu zinachitika Spanish wofanana ndi ulamuliro wa afransesado (mbali Gabbsburgov mafumu). Choncho, zovala Spanish zamatsenga Pankhaniyi anachita monga chizindikiro Pawokha dziko, Pawokha. Ngakhale akuluakulu kwambiri udindo wapamwamba, musazengereze kuvala zovala zina zovala. Onse a ku Ulaya anagonjetsedwa ndi kalembedwe Ufumu, ndi Spain, azungu mu nthawi ino zamatsenga anafika kunyumba yachifumu.

Ngati ife kulankhula za Spanish zovala pa nkhani ya mbiri, m'pofunika kuzindikira nthawi ya chitukuko.

Zovala achifumu nthawi ya Reconquista

Pa avareji nthawi zakale watha pafupifupi 600-700 zaka. nthawi ili yonse Pyrenean Akristu (makamaka Chipwitikizi ndi Spanish) mphamvu zonse kuyesera retake gawo pa chilumba chake, chomwe anali kulamulidwa ndi Emirates Moor. Amazing ndi wapadera zinthu pamene mwa "mphika" ankawaona miyambo dziko zovala-Visigoth Spanish, zochitika Arabic, komanso zinthu payekha kuchokera ku Ulaya (yokopa anthu kutengapo mbali Ankhondo a ku maiko ena). Kuyambira Gothic nthawi mu Spanish zovala (chithunzi) asamuka nsapato yaitali chala kuzindikira mipango (kuphatikizapo capirote - .. Long nyumba), wautali surcot (pansi scapular) malaya, omwe anali wokwera pamwamba pa zida, makamaka kwa kuteteza zitsulo mvula. Anali zinthu chithunzi yekha dziko monga sobreropa (a mtundu wa chivundikiro), abrigo, hubon (mtundu jekete), odula ndi drapery pa phewa limodzi, ndipo kasaka ropilya.

Female Spanish zovala mbali mayina awo kugula kuyambira cha m'ma 15. Izo zodziwika m'chiuno, kumene mmwamba ndi pansi limatulutsa makutu minofu, amagwiritsidwa ntchito kawirikawiri amaika. amakonzera tsitsi lolamuliridwa azimuth kwa yosalala adagawana pakati ndi kuluka plait. zipewa Traditional ndi:

• kofya de A papos - dongosolo zovuta za chimango zitsulo ndi woonda woyera nsalu;
• vespayo - ndi woonda mandala minofu okuta pamphumi ndi mutu, kugwa kumbuyo pa mapewa ake, ndi pamwamba atavala ndi zachitsulo woonda mphete, wokometsedwa ndi miyala yamtengo wapatali;
• trensado - mu nsalu zofunda pamwamba pa mutu wake atakulungidwa plait perevivaya pamwamba wakuda riboni.

nduwira lomaliza ntchito mpaka 1520, ndipo anali kusinthidwa ndi akazi Italy. Trensado zina pamodzi ndi nduwira (azimuth Oriental mavritasnkih amajambulapo maluwa okongola).

Kubadwa Kwatsopano zovala

nthawi A pamene chirichonse luso aona m'bandakucha namondwe, sanathe bwanji suti. M'zaka za m'ma 16 Gothic suti ndi zofewa nsalu madzi akuyamba kusandutsa mu mtundu wa zida pa chimango okhwima. Mosiyana ndi Chitaliyana Kubadwa Kwatsopano Chibasiki dziko amapereka chithunzi anu abwino mwa mzimu Mannerism.

Wamphamvu chikoka pa Spanish zovala dziko ndi zinthu zina - makamaka Tchalitchi cha Katolika ndi austerity zake, rigor m'bwalo zodyera achifumu ndi chivalry onse chimodzimodzi. Fashion mbiri yakale amati mafashoni Spanish, poyerekeza ndi zogwirizana Italy, kumene "wolemekezeka" thupi, anapeza mbali ya chinthu chimodzimodzi, atengera Masamu kwambiri kuti zinasintha zachilengedwe mzere silhouette ndi mawonekedwe opunduka.

Komabe, anthu wamba, mode uyu anali sagwirizana. Zovala akadali amatikumbutsa chi Spanish zovala kwa kuvina (woyamba chithunzi) ndi yochepa oyamba - ndi corset zingwe wowala mtundu.

suti

Mu suti Kubadwa Kwatsopano amaloŵamo atasintha, kumakhaladi mawonekedwe conical, kufika m'lifupi pazipita m'dera la m'chiuno. Pa nthawi imeneyo, fano la otchuka ankaona popanda zinthu zotsatirazi zovala.

• Qamees - shati kapena malaya. Kwathunthu anabisa outerwear pansi amene anaonekera okha nsalu kapena kolala cambric ndi mkulu kolala ndi kokha zingwe.
• Kalses - mathalauza, masitonkeni, zomwe, malingana ndi zochita za mafashoni, kusintha m'lifupi pa njira mbiya ndi chimango kuti kagawo ufulu. Mu zovala izi Spanish anyamata kapena amuna ndi kufanana mtheradi.
• Hubon - mtundu wa mkanjo jekete. Leaf ndi mkulu kolala zolimba-koyenera mawonekedwe. Chomangira lamba chinali chinsinsi. Kuwonjezera manja izi yopapatiza, anali kulumikizidwa onyenga. Jekete mosamala, ntchito padding, kuwumbidwa mu zida.
• Bragett - thalauza lake lalifupi ndi codpiece modzaza thonje ubweya kwa voliyumu.
• Kolala zinthu ngati chinthu osiyana. Mahatchi starched ndi m'mphepete iye anali ruffles. Ndi msinkhu wake papita nthawi - mpaka 20 cm ndi zaka za m'ma. Wotchuka corrugated grangola kapena gorgera, amene amadziwika pa dziko lonse lapansi.
• Roponen (outerwear sing'anga kutalika kapena lalifupi kolala ndi ubweya kapena nsalu) ndipo m'malo mwake kapena Kapita fieltro, burls (raincoats kalembedwe osiyana).
• Zipewa: zofewa beret ndi felemu olimba nakonza ndi ubweya ndi chipewa molimbika m'minda yaing'ono phirilo mawonekedwe (mu zoyambirira ndi wachiwiri kwa zaka za m'ma, motero)
• Nsapato: nsapato mu nkhondo ndi yamtendere - zolimba veleveti kapena nsapato bafuta ndi mabala.

The hoi polloi Spanish dziko zovala Kubadwa Kwatsopano anali mbali zosiyanasiyana kwambiri ndipo anali omveka kwambiri. M'malo yopapatiza kumangika hubona kapingot anali free, mwachitsanzo.

Akazi zovala

Iye anakumana kusintha kwakukulu ndi chimodzimodzi ngati amuna, anataya fluidity ndi mizere chosalimba, koma m'malo anapeza rigor ndi chimango. Silhouette monga tichipeza Triangles awiri juxtaposed (siketi ndi bodice) nsonga za zomwe intersect pa m'chiuno. The zovala inkakhala zinthu zotsatirazi.

• Vertigado (verdugos) - m'munsi siketi ndi stitched mu ndi hoops zachitsulo za chuma ndi wandiweyani.
• Baskin - chapamwamba chovala ankavala pa wina mmbuyo, unali wakuda taffeta.
• Sayo, vestido - pamwamba kavalidwe V-kudula kutsogolo ndi zipper pa mauta zingwe zopota. Chinali vakero - bodice ndi yopindika, kapena manja onyenga. Linapangidwa mbale woonda zitsulo pa kumadalira kuti unakhota ndi snug chabwino veleveti kapena suwedi. Spanish zovala atsikana chinthu ichi Kwaletsedwa. Ntchito zitsulo kwa kanjedza utyagivaniya kubisa mizere zachilengedwe monga chifuwa protuberances, nthawi zambiri zoopsa, kunena kanthu za pokusokoneza.
• Busk - zitsulo kapena matabwa mbale yopapatiza pa corset cholinga cha m'chiuno zowoneka ndi lopapatiza kupanga lathyathyathya m'mimba.
• Grangola ndi malaya - ofanana masuti anthu.
• Neckline, kawirikawiri lalikulu mawonekedwe ndi chatsekedwa nsalu.
• Ropa - pamwamba mchitidwe wa zovala ndi zazitali manja kapena lalifupi. Mwina izo lalandiridwa ndi Asilamu otchedwa a Moor.

Ntchito kapena moyo wokangalika chonchi suti anali n'zosatheka. Choncho, maonekedwe yosavuta akazi m'matauni zinali zosiyana. Iwo sanali kuvala masiketi okhwima chimango verdugos. Sukuluyi inali yosavuta malaya ndi yopapatiza, koma osati sculpting bodice ndi manja zochotseka. Chovala mwapang'ono pansi makutu lalikulu kapena anasonkhana ruffles pa m'chiuno. Ndi tsopano - amafotokozera zofunika kuti alipo mu zovala Spanish kwa kuvina (chithunzi nyemba zikutsimikiziridwa), kuphatikizapo flamenco.

Nsapato & zodzikongoletsera

Mosiyana ndi kuwala Italy ndi kuchuluka kwa mitundu ya zinthu zokongoletsera, zovala Spanish anayang'ana louma ndipo kuposa wokonda moyo wodzimana. Chiwembu mtundu zinali zochepa wakuda, imvi, wabulauni, woyera, ndi nthawi zina, ofiira ndi obiriwira. Ubwino monochrome yosalala nsalu. Anagawanika ndi kusindikizidwa, nsalu ndi dongosolo zamaluwa kapena zolinga achipembedzo.

Amuna nsapato zofewa zopangidwa veleveti kapena mtundu wa khungu, popanda chidendene, ndi chala lonse, limene ndinayamba pachimake. Mofananamo, kapangidwe anali ndi nsapato akazi, koma anawonjezera nsalu, ndipo m'zaka 16 mochedwa panali chidendene. Anali inadmissible kusonyeza nsapato avale pansi zovala, kupatulapo zichitike okha chapines (onani chithunzi pamwambapa) - pa yaikulu zidendene matabwa nsapato, ndi lodziwika kwambiri kunali dona, ndi thicker ziyenera kukhalira.

Kudandaula austerity ndi mdima wa mitundu, sitingathe kunena kuti zovala Spanish kwa atsikana kapena amayi anali ndi chuma lowonjezera ndi zokongoletsera lalikulu, zamasiku ndi zokongola. Dziko - mwini wake wa New World ndi zipangizo zake zonse, akanatha. Onse suti mwina zochita chinazilala maziko. zofunika: fani, malamba, unyolo, mikanda, buckles, clasps, zokongoletsera mutu, nsalu ndi ngale, ndi zina zotero ..

Fashion Golden Age

Suti zida mfundo Anapitiriza, ndi kokha mu theka lachiwiri la m'ma 17 ku Spain anayamba kudutsa zochita za French mafashoni, mwachitsanzo, momasuka neckline. Ena nkhanza amalimbikira, pali elongation lamadzi. A wamba akadali lotayirira nsalu malaya owala wachikuda masiketi ndi corset lacing. Amakonzera tsitsi wodzichepetsa achidule - tsitsi anasonkhana kuluka, amene anaikidwa pa kumbuyo kwa mutu ndi "mtanga". Upper Kuwala ndi prostolyudinok ogwirizana chovala chomwecho onse, ndi kukhalapo kwa zimakupiza.

suti Spanish anthu kakusintha atasintha. Mathalauza-kegs kutha, iwo kukhala zochepa fluffy, m'maondo kutalika, mmene uta tayi. Hubon ali masikono phewa ndi dzanja zambiri kulumikizidwa, pang'onopang'ono lengthened. mawonekedwe ndi wosalira kwambiri, ndi Mods kwambiri mwapang'onopang'ono kuyambira kuvala masuti mtundu wa French "musketeer". N'zochititsa chidwi kuti amuna Spanish sanagwiritse ntchito mawigi, kudula tsitsi lawo lalifupi, ndi m'ma 17 m'ma, pazipita kutalika hairstyle - mpaka pakati pa masaya.

Fashion XVIII-XIX atumwi

Ilidi m'ma latsopano mu 1700 anamwalira otsiriza a Habsburg mafumu pa mpando wachifumu wa Spain. The mfumu yatsopano anali chidzukulu cha Louis XIV. Pa nthawi iyi, Spanish zovala "Frenchify" ndipo akutenga Inde mtheradi mafashoni, amene kuzichita Versailles. Komabe, olemba mbiri salankhula za kubadwanso wake ndi kusintha, ndi pophatikizana ndi poto-European, koma ndi kuteteza makhalidwe kwapadera dziko.

Kungoyambira kumapeto kwa zaka za zana ulamuliro 18 pa mabwalo apamwamba a anthu amatenga chikhalidwe zamatsenga, amene, monga maginito, kukopa olemekezeka. Izi agona mu chiwerengero cha ntchito za akatswiri zithunzi woyamba. Ku Ulaya, Ufumu analamulira, koma anthu apamwamba m'dera massively amakonda onse "otchuka". Kuwonjezera poyera mwano ndi ufulu (kaya wamkulu kapena mwana), Spanish zovala poyera anatsindika adzadziwire dziko.