Hillary Hill, pamapiri a phiri la Everest: mbiri ndi mbiri

Kodi Hillary Step ndi ndani, munthu aliyense wokwera mapiri amene amalota za Everest wogonjetsa amadziwa. Ena amati malo awa ndi ovuta kwambiri, okhudzana ndi mitembo ya ogonjetsa olephera a "Peak of the World". Zina - kuti palibe chisa chapadera ndi choopsa sichiyimira. Mu Alps, mwachitsanzo, palinso makoma ovuta kwambiri. Ndipo ngati nyengo imapereka, ndipo pali mpweya wochuluka m'makona, ndiye kuti n'zosavuta kugonjetsa mtunda wa Hillary kupita kumtunda wautali. Sherpas amachita izi kangapo pa nyengo. Amamanganso zingwe, zomwe zimamatira kumakwera ogulitsa komanso amalonda. Koma nkhaniyi siyenela kuyankha funso ngati kuli kovuta kapena kovuta kuthetsa phazi la Hillary. Ife tingokuuzani inu chomwe icho chiri. Ndipo kuchokera pazomwezi ndi zithunzizi mukhoza kupanga zovuta za ulendo.

Everest

Pakati pa zaka za m'ma 1800, ntchito ya British geodetic inadziwika kwambiri pa mapiri a Himalaya pogwiritsa ntchito zipangizo. Iwo unali pamalire a Tibet ndi Nepal Peak 15. Msonkhano waukulu pamtunda wa mamita 8,848 pamwamba pa nyanja unatchulidwa kulemekeza mutu wa utumiki, George Everest. A British sanadziwe kuti phirili liri ndi dzina. Nepalese anamutcha iye Mayi wa Milungu - Sagarmatha. Ndipo a ku Tibetan amatcha phiri la Jomolungma. Kwa iwo, chiwala chowalacho chinaphiphiritsa Amayi Wamkulu a Moyo. Malo amenewa ankaonedwa kuti ndi opatulika. Mu 1920 kokha, mtsogoleri wauzimu wa Tibetan Dalai Lama analola Aurose kuti ayesere kumuzunza. Komabe, Jomolungma adapita ku ulendo wa khumi ndi umodzi, womwe unabwera ku Hill ya Hillary pa phiri la Everest. Amatchulidwa ndi mmodzi mwa mamembala ake, omwe, pamodzi ndi Sherp Tenzing Norgay, adayamba kukwera ku "Top of the World".

Kodi Hillary Step ndi chiyani?

Kukwera ku Phiri la Everest sikuli ndi zovuta zambiri. Ali panjira, palibe zitsulo zozungulira, zomwe munthu wophunzitsidwa yekha angakwere. Mavuto omwe Ogonjetsa Everest anakumana nawo, amagwirizanitsidwa ndi kutalika kwa phiri. Kwa mamita 8000 pamwamba pa nyanja, chomwe chimatchedwa chigawo cha imfa chimayamba. Oxygen mu malo osadziwika ndi ochepa kwambiri kuti asamalire moyo. Kutentha ndi kuthamanga kumafika ku zinthu zoipa kwambiri ndi malingaliro aumunthu, kuwonetsa chikhalidwe chochepa. Muzochitika izi, sitepe iliyonse ndi yovuta. Ndipo apa, pafupi ndi msonkhano wapamwamba, pamtunda wa mamita 8,790, Hill Hill ya Hillary - chigawo chozungulira chokhala ndi ayezi ndi chipsyinjo chisanu - chimakula. Palibe njira yozungulira izo. Kumbali zonsezi palizunguliridwa ndi mapiri. Chimakhala chinthu chimodzi chokwera phiri la pafupi ndi mapazi khumi ndi atatu.

Akukwera Hillary kupita ku Everest

Kuchokera mu 1953, khumi ndi chimodzi mzere, munali anthu oposa mazana anai. Gawo la mkango linali lopangidwa ndi othandizira komanso otsogolera - Sherpas. Anthu awa akhala kale kumtunda wapamwamba. Chifukwa cha kusintha kwake, a Sherpas ali ndi kuwala kolimba komanso mitima yamphamvu, kuphatikizapo kusintha kwa chisanu. Ulendowu unasunthika pang'onopang'ono. Kukweza ndi kusintha kumatenga miyezi iwiri. Gululo linamanga pamtunda wa mamita 7,900. Woyamba kuwombera pamsonkhanowo anapita ku Britain awiri okwera ndege Ch. Evans ndi T. Bordillon. Koma chifukwa chakuti anali ndi vuto ndi masikisi okosijeni, amayenera kubwerera. Tsiku lotsatira, pa May 29, New Zealander Edmund Hillary ndi Sherp Tenzing Noguei anapita kukayesa mwayi wawo. Pambuyo pa chovala chakumwera iwo adatsekezedwa ndi sitepe yaikulu. Hillary anamanga chingwe ndipo anayamba kukwera phiri lotsetsereka. Kotero iye anafika ku chimanga cha chisanu. Pasanapite nthawi, Norgay ananyamuka n'kupita naye. Pamwamba pa okwera mapiriwa anafika pa 11.30 m'mawa.

Mavuto akukwera omwe amagwirizana ndi Hillary

Ogonjetsa oyamba a Everest adakwanitsa cholinga chawo masana, choncho adatha kuchoka "kumalo okufa" dzuwa lisanalowe. Izi ndizofunikira kwambiri. Chifukwa kugona usiku kupitirira mamita 8,000 pamwamba pa nyanja kumatanthauza imfa yeniyeni. Tsopano kupambana kwa Jomolungma kumaikidwa pa malonda. Otsatira ambiri olemera ndi okhumba okonzekera osiyanasiyana amatumizidwa ku mphepo yamtunda wotchedwa Everest. Koma iwo, ndi okondana omwe amapita kumalo amodzi amakhala ndi zofanana tsiku ndi tsiku. Dzukani mu mdima, kuyendayenda, kujambulira pa Top of the World kwa pafupi mphindi 15-20 ndi msanga msasa mumsasa. Koma phiri la Hillary - malo otsetsereka ndi ofooka kwambiri kuti anthu awiri asaphonye. Chotsatira chake, mizere yowunikira nthawi zambiri imakhala yolengedwa kuzungulira, ndipo ngakhale nkhondo zimayambira. Ndipotu, oyendayenda amalonda omwe amapereka madola zikwi zingapo chifukwa chokwera phiri la Everest sakufuna kugwirizana ndi lingaliro lakuti ayenera kubwerera chifukwa nthawi yatha. Ena amasiya malangizo, pitani pamwamba ndikuwonongeka panjira.

Mapulani kwa alendo oyendayenda

Pali malingaliro angapo pa momwe mungapangitsire Everest kupezeka. Mayendedwe a Hillary sangathe kutenga ozunzidwa ambiri. Sichikuwoneka ngati chopinga chosatha. Kumayambiriro kwa mwezi wa April, timu ya Sherpa ifika pamsasa, imamanga nyumba zake, kenako imapita pamwamba. Kumeneko anthu olimba mtimawa amagwiritsa ntchito zingwe za Hillary, zomwe zikwizikwi za ku Ulaya ndi America zidzauka m'nyengoyi. Otsatsa olemera awa adzatsatiridwa ndi Sherpas ndi mabotolo ndi magetsi. Ndichifukwa chake lingaliro lakumanga pa Everest ... elevator ikuganiziridwa mozama. Inde, pamwamba pa phirilo iyenera kuikidwa mu dome, yomwe idzaponyedwa ndi mpweya, ngati nyumba ya ndege. Koma ngakhale mutasulira lingaliro lolimba limeneli kuti likhale chenicheni, komabe zikwi za anthu zidzawomba pamapiri a phirilo, kuthamangira ku chipale chofewa.

Mapulani a Sherpas

Otsogolera, omwe safunanso kutaya malipiro awo, amapereka lingaliro lochepetsetsa kusiyana ndi kukweza Everest. Zimaphatikizapo kuika masitepe angapo pafupi ndi Hillary. Mapulani awa sakuwoneka osatheka. Sherpas ndikukhazikitsa maziko mumsasa wa msasa pamtunda wa mamita 5300. Amaika masitepe a zitsulo kudutsa pa gombe lamtundu wa Khumbu nthawi zonse ndikuyendetsa njira yopita ku Silence Valley (6500 m). Poyambirira, iwo anapachika zingwe ziwiri pazitsulo zopapatiza zazitsulo. Tsopano iwo amapereka kukhazikitsa masitepe aakulu a zitsulo pa Hillary Steps. Everest chifukwa cha iwo adzakhala ofikika, chifukwa thanthwe ili silikhala ndi mizere.